Telluride Rock Climbing


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Telluride is lucky enough to have many different climbing areas with different styles, settings and rock types. From Ophir’s traditional and bold multi-pitch routes, to pocket-pulling sport climbs near Bridal Veil Falls, to the sandstone bouldering in beautiful Ilium valley, and some of the most famous ice climbs in the state, there is something for almost every type of climber. While there is a lot of quality rock, there is even more loose rock, so heads up, test your holds and wear a helmet.

TMtC encourages the climbing community to list all of our local climbs on mountainproject.com. Local guidebooks are now out of print and may be for quite awhile. If you climb a local route and it’s not already listed, please list it there. We welcome local first ascent information on new climbs in the area and will feature them on our blog and climbing forum. Please reach out to us if you would like to share your own trip report. Many other routes exist in the high country and are scattered around San Miguel County. Refer to mountainproject.com for more info.

The Telluride Indoor Climbing Gym is open during the winter season from November 27, 2016 through April 2, 2017. The climbing gym is open Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays from 6 p.m. until 9 p.m.

Here’s a rundown of the local climbing areas:

Join us THREE nights a week to climb on our small but mighty indoor gym!

The Indoor Climbing Gym is open from November 27, 2016 through April 2, 2017.

Where

Telluride Intermediate School entrance (717 West Colorado Ave) - enter to the right of the Palm Theater doors, address next to door is 717, and the gym will be inside on the right.

When

Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays from 6 p.m. to 9 p.m.

Cost

$6/night
Member 10-Punch Pass: $40, Non-Member 10-Punch Pass: $50
Member Season Pass: $125, Non-Member Season Pass: $150
(cash, check or credit card)

What

The climbing gym has some route climbing and rated bouldering problems. The difficulty of the problems is beginner to advanced. Routes are changed throughout the season by our excellent route setters.

Details

No equipment - other then ropes - available for use or rent. All participants must sign a Liability release form and have payment at the time of participation. Children are welcome with adult supervision.

Other

Skill Building programs offered throughout the season. Some examples are: How to best use the climbing wall to train, yoga for climbers, belay escape techniques, rappelling techniques, building core strength and injury prevention. See calendar for details.

Ophir Wall

This old school, classic area features mostly multi-pitch traditional climbing, with some sport routes sprinkled in. There are several 1970s test pieces here, bold routes put up by the likes of Royal Robbins, Henry Barber, Mugs Stump, Lynn Hill and John Long, as well as locals Charlie Fowler, Bill Kees, Antoine Savelli, Gary Wright and a host of others. Bring small gear and big confidence.

Cracked Canyon

Quality, single-pitch routes, trad and bolts. Fun climbing, but a very steep, un-fun approach up it's ever worsening, washed-out, loose canyon floor. Not a good place for dogs or people that don't like to walk on scree and boulders. But great climbing on (mostly) solid rock.

Dark Side

Directly across from the Ophir Wall, this obscure area hosts a variety of excellent climbs, trad and sport. Can be hard to find, but you will have it to yourself. Access issues exist on the approach. Please respect private land.

Bridal Veil Falls Walls

Conglomerate pockets and knobs, almost entirely bolt protected. Great single and multi-pitch bolted routes, all accessed by the same trail. Many moderate routes exist. The Umbrella Wall area has some of the finest multi-pitch sport climbs in the valley.

Pipeline Wall

More bolt-protected conglomerate pocket pulling on the opposite (sunny) side of the canyon, across from the Falls Walls. Access issues exist, please stay on road and trail. Many of these climbs are directly under the popular Via Ferrata route. Helmets are advised. Mostly single pitch, but ranging up to to 3 pitches.

Via Ferrata Rock Climbs

Several climbs exist that start from, or end on the Via Ferrata. Most are bolt protected and on either side of the Main Event area, and have big wall-style exposure. There are a few climbs that start from the ground and top out on the VF after 4 pitches or so. Watch for loose rock.

Route Maps:

After School Wall
Michelin Wall

Mill Creek

A short, pleasant hike to an alpine sport crag. A dozen routes exist at the top of the Mill Creek trail on the wall above the bridge. Bolt-protected sandstone less than 30m high. A single rope and rack of draws will do, along with some bug juice.

Bear Creek

Alpine sport climbing in a stunningly beautiful setting. Single and multi-pitch on conglomerate pockets. A tough hike (and sometimes even tougher bushwhack) but worth every step.

Telluride Rocks Guide Cover

The TELLURIDE ROCKS 3rd edition guidebook to rock climbing near Telluride, Colorado is out of print. However, Damon Johnson has been kind enough to allow a copy of the book to be available here. Links to the various sections are provided. Covering everything from bouldering areas to selected high country climbs, this book was written by Damon Johnson and Charlie Fowler in 2005. Also, you can find a copy of their Wild Wild West Guidebook here.